The Grain...

Danny Fladd’s search for locally brewed beer.

Beer lovers beware: New River Pale Ale, once the pride of Blacksburg and a staple at every local bar, has quickly gone from an endangered species to an extinct one. Now many drinkers are asking, "If I want to drink locally brewed beer, what else is there?"

I headed downtown to investigate. My first stop was the London Underground Pub. Dark and quiet bars are often my favorite kind, and that afternoon, the Underground fit the bill perfectly. As I walked past the dart lanes, I couldn't help but notice the posters touting the arrival of Starr Hill Jomo Lager. Starr Hill has been a fixture at the University of Virginia's Wahoo tailgates for years. Would a UVA brew have what it takes to make it in Hokietown? As my English mug was filled, I asked bartenders Adam Wilson and Eric Bissey what they thought of the beer. Adam told me that he preferred it in a bottle and Eric implied that there were better beers available for the same price. That said, they left me alone with the beer.

illustration by Ben Capozzi

Starr Hill Jomo Lager - Starr Hill Brewery - Crozet, VA

Starr Hill's Jomo Lager has a brilliant amber hue. Its fluffy, white head dissipates quickly to form a lumpy lace that lasts all the way down to the final sip. It has a mild, hoppy aroma with notes of toasted bread. A sweet but forgettable flavor, reminiscent of corn, fades quickly as it washes over the tongue. The sharp, bubbly texture, however, leaves behind a stale finish and a coating inside the mouth that you can't wait to wash away. It is by no means the worst as amber lagers go, but it seems imbalanced and is easily outclassed by the bigger, bolder beers in its price range. Rating: C+

My next stop was the Rivermill Map Co. With over twenty taps and a broad selection of bottles, "The Mill" is one of Blacksburg's premier beer bars. If any place in Blacksburg would have a great local beer, I'd think it would be here. Scanning the broad selection, I noticed Washington's Porter from the Williamsburg AleWerks brewery. Being a big porter and stout fan, I didn't hesitate to order one and asked Mill mainstay Jeff Mangold his opinion on the beer. He said it was a good dark beer that tasted like something the colonial Virginians would've drank "back in the day." He poured me a glass and was soon caught up in a Saturday lunch rush.

Washington's Porter - Williamsburg AleWerks - Williamsburg, VA.

Washington's Porter has a nice brown head, full of tight bubbles, that fades away slowly. The beer is almost pitchblack in color with the smallest hint of red around the edges of the glass. Its aroma seems mild for a porter, but as the beer warms up it releases an ever increasing scent of coffee and chocolate. When you first taste this beer, the super rich mocha notes begin to kick in. Full, toasty flavors cover the tongue and you are left with a lasting toffee finish that makes you want to go back for more. A classic example of a well done porter! Rating: A

It was 3 PM when I left the Rivermill. Late afternoon is one of the best times to have a beer and look for some good conversation at a local bar. The staff isn't super busy, and the customers are almost always regulars. Such was the case when I entered The Cellar, my final stop. I mentioned that I was looking for local beers and Jacki Covington, a former Cellar employee, directed me toward the beers of the Blue Mountain Brewery of Afton, Virginia. I ordered a bottle of the Evil 8o and asked Zach Ward, the bartender, what he knew about it. He said it had been a while since he'd had one but that he remembered it being a good beer. I scanned the bottle quickly and read the label describing the beer as a "spiritual ale" with caramelized biscuit malt and Goldings hops. Sounds interesting, I thought, as I poured the dark brew into a Belgian goblet.

Evil 8o Belgian-Style Dubbel Ale - Blue Mountain Brewery - Afton, VA

Evil 8o is very dark, almost black, and has a thin head that leaves only a small island of lacy foam behind. It has a malty aroma with a hint of raisins and nutmeg, and a very rich, complex flavor. The sweet taste of molasses is balanced by a nice hop kick. This beer is definitely not for the faint of heart. Its high alcohol sting, overpowering flavors and malty finish leave you wondering if it is a beer to sit and savor or one that's just too over the top. Personally, I prefer the earthy, bready goodness of a true Trappist Dubbel like Westmalle or Chimay. Rating: B+